The Fourth and Fifth Dimensions of 1973's Simplicity 6082

I revisited one of my favorite patterns (I sewed three versions in 2010) this  past May and just recently on August 16, 2015.  It originally came out in 1973.

 

 I finished the necklines of both using a method similar to a "wrapped binding" method detailed in this blog entry I sewed the strip cut from the same fabric (right side of strip to the "wrong" side of the neckline or from the inside of the garment), turned to the outside and topstitched close to the edge. 



Fabric used
Fifth version (blue/gold): rayon jersey from EOS.  

I have had this in my stash for some time.  I was not too certain about the print.

After fiddling with print placement, cutting and stitching, here is the result:

This photo was taken after the students left campus and after a one-hour meeting on "pro-hour" Monday. I enjoyed wearing it to work today.  It was truly comfortable and suitable for the hot weather we have been experiencing in San Diego, California. 


Fourth version (zig zag): ITY jersey from fashionfabricsclub,com (I apologize for not having a "full length" photo).

The neckband, especially with the placement of the print surpassed my expectations!  I was able to have the front and back to look identical as intended.  I was not able to cut the sleeves to look "symmetric".  But, I am satisfied with the overall look.

Earlier blog post of my previous tops from the same pattern:

http://groovy60ssewing.blogspot.com/2010/03/cult-of-fleur-sonality-pattern.html

Haltered States

This is one of my favorite looks for Cher, wearing a halter style dress, 1972.

  
Current sleeveless tops with gathered neckline and banded collar.

A re-issue of a 1960's pattern from Burda’s 1960’s vintage collection:  halter style tops

Size:  Misses’ EUR  32-44 or US 6-18  I sewed a Misses 40 or US 14.

Fabric: stretch cotton sateen

I have already made 5 tops, with the cotton sateen being my favorite fabric to work with using this pattern. The one shown is my 4th version.

 

Directions:  They were logical and easy to follow with helpful diagrams.  I really like the Burda commercial patterns.  The seam allowances are also included.

Favorite Features/Other Features: The “cutaway” sleeveless style, ruched front and mock collar.  It has the halter look from the front, without having bare partial back.

Designed to fit those who are taller, with longer torsos.  I need to more adjustments to the pattern  such another petite adjustment between the waist and lower armscye.

Have to gather and place the neckband precisely to the corresponding markings on the neckline (front and two back edges).  It helps to baste the neckband  and try on the top, noting the distribution of the gathers, placement of the neckband so that the front armholes are level.

Directions:

Prepare the neckband: apply interfacing,  fold in half and press; press up seam allowance on facing portion

Attach zipper at the center back which starts approximately 6" below a keyhole opening at the back.  I omitted the zipper and replaced it with a center back seam since there was enough allowance to slip an out of the top.  The stretch of the fabric also allowed me to pursue this option.

Sew side seams below the armscye.

Apply bias strip to the armscyes.

Gather the neckline.

Baste interfaced neckband to the neckline, matching dots .  Try on top, and make adjustments if necessary to align the neckline for symmetry.

Stitch the neckband to the neckline, stitch the ends, right sides together, and turn to the inside

Topstitch the lower edges of neckband

Attach closures at ends

Alterations/Modifications

*My typical 1” petite adjustment at the waist

*Narrow the upper back from the center

*instead of using a zipper for the center back, I stitched center back seam up to the base of a  keyhole opening, 6" below the neckline.  Turn in topstitch hems of opening.

*Stitch  the bias strip to the inside (instead of the outside as directed) ¼” from the raw edge (right side of strip to wrong side of garment), turning to the outside, press raw edge under , and topstitch.  I wanted to forgo handstitching the  facing edge from the inside.

 

Conclusion:

A nice classic top that looks au courant and sleek. With only two available views, the possibilities are endless with changes in fabric. 

Going Jacquard-i with a 1967 Butterick Dress Pattern

Current dresses that closely resemble the styles of a 1967 pattern that I will review are these from Ralph Lauren's spring 2014 collection.

 
 

Who could forget from the 1960's this magical and mod-tastic  "genie"?

Yup, it is Barbara Eden, who is now 82 years young!

From 1967, a sheath dress

(pattern purchased from https://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedleArtSupplies)

Pattern description:
Sleeveless, slightly A-line dress with funnel collar has squared armholes and button and top-stitch trim. Front and back of dress are top-stitched to side panels.


Size:
Misses', bust 34

Fabric:
Ace Jacquard Knit Tile Blue/White
https://www.fabric.com/buy/0340751/ace-jacquard-knit-tile-black-white

Likes/Dislikes 
I purchased this pattern on-line due to the slightly-A-line style and funnel collar. The design features that give this dress distinctiveness are the side panels bridging the front and back and with top hemmed edges rest below the armpits. The dress seemed to be easy to sew, although I anticipated it would take more time than other sheath style dresses due to the front and back to be basted to the side pieces and topstitched along those edges.




Directions:
Sufficient or bare-bone directions with detailed diagrams. The notches at the front and back facings (joined at the shoulder seams) align nicely with the corresponding notches at the front and back.


The dress took me nearly 16 hours to construct. The steps such as the attaching the facings, overlaying and basting the front to the sides and the back to the sides, and topstitching the edges are more involved than suggested by the diagrams. 



I used the continuity of the fabric print design to assist me in aligning and basting the front and back to the corresponding seam allowances on the side panels. As for the directions to attaching the zipper, I was told to refer to those that came with the zipper. However my zipper did not with any directions, due to being purchased by the bulk from e*ay. I find that the Colette tutorial to inserting an invisible zipper a very useful reference.

 I also did lots of handstitched the hems and the edges of the collar.

 

Modifications: 
My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

Narrowed the upper back 3/8" at the center seam 

Shortened the pattern 4" from the lower edge and hemmed an additional 2" using handstitching, making it a knee-length dress, appears longer in the photos. Mini-dresses are cool, but as I near 50 in about 2 years, I don't feel like taking my dresses to a "higher level".

Omitted the side buttons. They would not seem to work with the look of my dress.

Conclusion:
If you have the patience for projects that require a lengthy time commitment, the experience with sewing a zippered dress, and a passion for this style of a dress, then I recommend this pattern. I would not recommend this as a "first dress" pattern due to the plethora of time to be invested in fabric placement, basting and topstitching. The time factor has precluded me from trying this pattern again, but I like the sense of accomplishment from adhering to a project that provided a worthwhile challenge until its completion. Contests such as my all-time favorite, the vintage sewing pattern contest, give me that nice and needed nudge to sew a theme-inspired garment.

Some 1980's Dolman-eering Influences

Happy New Year!

Yesterday in the mail,  I received these patterns that I purchased from etsy. I am certain that the gorgeous supermodel Beverly Johnson is the lady in the blue top.




These styles are not outdated as evident from these tops that I discovered online.


I  am hoping that my sewing mojo returns after sewing something simple as one of those 80's tops.

The Summer and Simplicity of 1973

When I think of  the summer of 1973, I am reminded of the arrival of my little sister to the world.  That was one of the most exciting times of my life.

When I think of 1973,  I also think of fun, carefree, and colorful fashions,  such as these by "Ship 'N Shore", where Maud Adams is looking cool and "mod" in yellow:
 


Besides the wide collared neckline and mock turtleneck styles, the bare shoulders look was en "Vogue" during the summer of 1973 (and still looks so current) as modeled by the elegant Beverly Johnson in the May 1973 issue of Vogue magazine.
 

This issue not only featured Raquel Welch on the cover, but quite revealing photos of the now 73 year old actress.
   


And still on the subject of 73, or 1973, here is Simplicity 5957
  


I used a remnant knit of a dress made from a "Maria of Denmark" pattern.  After shortening the dress into a top, replacing the center back zipper with a keyhole opening at the upper back, and performing my petite adjustment at the waistline and another adjustment above the bust (to raise the armholes),
  

I did not bother "hooking" the upper back and just let the collar drape naturally at the shoulders, to avoid the constrictive look at the neck.

This is truly a "jiffy" pattern judging by the number of pattern pieces for just the dress:
 


Due to fabric constraints, I had to stitch a strip of fabric that "bridges" the lower left and right back before attaching it to the upper back. The fabric print seems to nicely camouflage the additional "seams".  I did not want to let fabric pieces just sit in my stash and be forgotten.  This may not the sleekest or finely sewn look, but it is wearable.



As mentioned earlier, I omitted the center back zipper, and I also replaced the armhole facings with narrow bindings created from bias strips in the same fabric as my top.
 

 

Last week was officially the last week of summer, but it still feels like summer with high temperatures this week!

(at La Jolla)



Also from the May 1973 issue of Vogue magazine:
 

A Birthday "Star"

Guess who turns 73 today (I just found out today)!

Yes, it's Mr. Love and Tranquility himself, the original?? Emo-esque "hair swoosher", Ringo Starr (aka Richard Starkey)!

The original 4 "mop" tops.  They have inspired generations of "mane-ly"men in the fashion, music, and even the political scene.

 I completed this top recently with remaining Beatles themed fabric.  This is my 6th "Beatles" garment.  I hope to wear this at a popular cover band's upcoming concert soon.

The only modification that I made (after sewing 3 versions), is stitching a little dart at each end of the elliptical keyhole or "cutout", to prevent it from "stretching". I think this feature was included in the Craftsy photo of a finished top that I originally overlooked.

I used this freebie downloadable pattern from Craftsy by user "GabyCats". There are 12 sheets to paste which results in only 2 pattern pieces, front and back.

 

 I already made 3 from this pattern!

 

Original review:
http://sewspiciousmindful.blogspot.com/2013/06/three-tops-from-freebie-two-piece.html



Ringo "acting naturally" with his favorite albums.

 

in a reflective pose

 

(oops! I have to delete that cigarette.  I hate smoking....)

I title this photo "Beatles in a Breeze".
Paul acting silly while Ringo is in a "GQ" model moment.

Four (?!!) decades later, and Paul turned the other way,  the surving pair of the "Lads from Liverpool" are now "back" to-back

His birthday message of sending a message of peace on his birthday at noon.
http://www.onenewspage.com/n/US/74vxq7tt1/Ringo-Starr-73-and-other-celebrity-birthdays-for.htm

Here's a snapshot from that video that I found




I have to admit for 73, he looks fabulous. Despite his offbeat and wacky behavior over the years, Ringo has discovered the fountain of youth in his peace promotion and quirkiness.

Here's an adorable photo of Ringo and his son Zak, 1965.

(I just discovered that Zak and I share the same birthday, except he was born a year before me)

To a father, grandfather, peace spokesperson, photographer, musician, singer, have a totally cool and groovy birthday, Ringo!

Crossing Over from 1976 to 2013

I recently purchased this rare 1976 gem from ebay and by chance came across this criss-cross top at Nordstrom.com. 








I would need to make my necessary adjustments to the pattern. Stay tuned for my outcome(s) for this updated post...