Sunday, April 08, 2007

Nifty Fifties

Some 50's glamour:


Shelley Fabares looking pretty and proper!
Note the collar and front of top! This looks similar to Simplicity's vintage 3229!

My version with BlueBonnet Cowgirls' fabric from Hancock's online sale!




Another ebay find! This is by far the oldest pattern that I have used!

Pattern Description
Blouse has collar, set-in sleeves and button front closing. View 1 has full sleeves gathered into wide sleeve bands. View 2 features full sleeves with elastic casing at lower edge and novelty lace trim. View 3 feaures long slleeves pleated into French cuffs. I sewed View 2, the one with the 3/4 billowy sleeves. By looking at the pattern envelope models (no year printed), this is probably from the 1950's.

Size
Miss Size 16, Bust 36

Fabric Used
Printed woven cotton ('Bluebonnet cowgirls' print) with a tad bit of stretch from a Hancock's on-line clearance sale.

Features
*All layout and instructions printed on double-sided page.

*Instructions flowed well, except for one step on creating View 2's sleeve. The accompanying illustrations were helpful.

*Instructions assumed few things that might not be clear for beginners such as adding bias trim to hem the bottom and finishing the cuffs.

*Only four pattern pieces are required for View 2: front (cut 2), back (cut 1), collar (cut 2), and sleeves (cut 2).

*The front have built-in front facings (folded) instead of the ones that are sewn to the front edge.

*Darted bust, lower front, upper back (two little ones just below center of neckline)and lower back.

*Interfaced collar and front (long strip is placed along front facing to stabilize buttonholes)

*The collar aligned well with the marked dots, the shoulder seams and the front edges.
*The upper part of sleeves are gathered between two marked dots and the bottom parts have elastic casings. Each sleeve eased in nicely into the armscye.

*Narrow bottom hem.


Modifications
*I lengthened the entire blouse another 3/4". I wanted it to be well past my hips to provide an illusion of a longer torso. This blouse was probably intended to be at or just above hip level.

* I used a 3/8" side seam allowance (instead of the recommended 5/8").

* I made a little error in finishing the bottom of the sleeves for View 2. The sleeve instructions immediately (without referring to a particular view) asked to gather the bottom (2 rows of stitching) which I did (this was needed to add the cuffs for View 1). But when I looked ahead, I saw that View 2 bypassed the gathering and required making the self-casing and inserting the elastic through it. I did not feel like removing the bottom gathers!

* Then a light bulb flashed! I sewed a lime green of open bias tape at the gathered edges of the sleeve's bottom (right sides of fabric and tape together), folded the bias tape towards the wrong side of the blouse and stitched the tape together. Then, to cover the gathered stitches and any piece of bias tape showing on the outside, I folded the sleeve's newly biased bottom edge (tucking the seam allowance underneath) and sewed it to the inside, while still preserving the gathered look just above my elbows. So, I really did not need a piece of elastic after all!

* I added goldtone buttons that are in the form of horse surrounded by a horsehoe.


Conclusion
A very well drafted pattern! I really liked the fit and next time hope to create a solid color version of this top as well as the long sleeve version. I might even try modifying the collar to make it smaller or rounded!

From Saks Fifth Avenue: