Saturday, May 31, 2014

Going Jacquard-i with a 1967 Butterick Dress Pattern

Current dresses that closely resemble the styles of a 1967 pattern that I will review are these from Ralph Lauren's spring 2014 collection.

Ralph Lauren
 
 

Who could forget from the 1960's this magical and mod-tastic  "genie"?



Yup, it is Barbara Eden, who is now 82 years young!


From 1967, a sheath dress

Butterick  4266
(pattern purchased from https://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedleArtSupplies)

Pattern description:
Sleeveless, slightly A-line dress with funnel collar has squared armholes and button and top-stitch trim. Front and back of dress are top-stitched to side panels.



Size:
Misses', bust 34

Fabric:
Ace Jacquard Knit Tile Blue/White

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0340751/ace-jacquard-knit-tile-black-white

Jacquard-i




Likes/Dislikes 
I purchased this pattern on-line due to the slightly-A-line style and funnel collar. The design features that give this dress distinctiveness are the side panels bridging the front and back and with top hemmed edges rest below the armpits. The dress seemed to be easy to sew, although I anticipated it would take more time than other sheath style dresses due to the front and back to be basted to the side pieces and topstitched along those edges.

Front Facing and Back Facing Along the Edges of the Front and Back


Directions:
Sufficient or bare-bone directions with detailed diagrams. The notches at the front and back facings (joined at the shoulder seams) align nicely with the corresponding notches at the front and back.



The dress took me nearly 16 hours to construct. The steps such as the attaching the facings, overlaying and basting the front to the sides and the back to the sides, and topstitching the edges are more involved than suggested by the diagrams. 


Attaching  the Front and Back to the Side Panels

I used the continuity of the fabric print design to assist me in aligning and basting the front and back to the corresponding seam allowances on the side panels. As for the directions to attaching the zipper, I was told to refer to those that came with the zipper. However my zipper did not with any directions, due to being purchased by the bulk from e*ay. I find that the Colette tutorial to inserting an invisible zipper a very useful reference.

 I also did lots of handstitched the hems and the edges of the collar.
Inside-Out
Butterick4266_1967_Dress_Const _5
 Back

Modifications: 
My typical 1" petite adjustment at the waistline

Narrowed the upper back 3/8" at the center seam 


Shortened the pattern 4" from the lower edge and hemmed an additional 2" using handstitching, making it a knee-length dress, appears longer in the photos. Mini-dresses are cool, but as I near 50 in about 2 years, I don't feel like taking my dresses to a "higher level".

Omitted the side buttons. They would not seem to work with the look of my dress.



Jacquard-i

Conclusion:
If you have the patience for projects that require a lengthy time commitment, the experience with sewing a zippered dress, and a passion for this style of a dress, then I recommend this pattern. I would not recommend this as a "first dress" pattern due to the plethora of time to be invested in fabric placement, basting and topstitching. The time factor has precluded me from trying this pattern again, but I like the sense of accomplishment from adhering to a project that provided a worthwhile challenge until its completion. Contests such as my all-time favorite, the vintage sewing pattern contest, give me that nice and needed nudge to sew a theme-inspired garment.