Friday, February 23, 2007

Puffy Sleeves on the Prairie

 
From the Spring 2007 runway, Stella McCartney's puffy sleeve revival!







Alice Roi's version:


Boho girl, Jan Brady!


From 1971:




From 1971:
Pattern Description
"Misses' set of blouses: The blouse with back zipper has set-in sleeves gathered to armhle and bias bound high round neckline with bow above keyhole opening."

I sewed the view/version with the short puffed up sleeves. I originally intended to make one of the long sleeved versions, but I did not have enough material.

Sizes
Size 12, bust 34. Surprisingly it was not tight, because I am a 36.

Fabric Used
For my wearable muslin, I used a woven cotton from the quilting section of Joann's.

Features of the Pattern, and Procedures Used
* Single sized pattern, printed on tissue paper thicker than what is used today!

* When pattern originally came out, it had the "New narrow shoulder look, the shoulder length of the pattern is shoreter and the head of the sleeve is higher."

* Directions and illustrations were sufficient.

* Top was self-interfaced at the keyhole area.

* With the front facing pinned to the front of the blouse, right sides, together, I stitched along the dotted lines on the facing. Then I cut 1/4" from the stitching and turned the facing to the inside and voila, the instant keyhole opening. It was simpler than I imagined!

* I used bias tape for the neckline and the front ties.

* I found a slit about 3/8" below the neckline, which I carelessly snipped while I was cutting out the front of the blouse, silly me! So I ended up lowering the neckline by that amount, as I was finishing the neckline with the bias tape. It ended up being to my advantage, otherwise the neckline would have been a little to high for me!

* Instead of slipstitching as instructed, I machine stitched the edge of the bias tape to form narrow ties.

* The view I sewed did not include the elastic waistline. I used the steps from the other views to create one.

* Back zipper. I sewed one on as instructed. I really did not need one because I was able to put the blouse over my head. But wait, with the keyhole opening, was a zipper really necessary?

* Short puff sleeves are gathered at the top with elastic casings.

* The short puff sleeve blouse had no elastic gathering at the waist. I sewed two elastic casings (from the wrong side of the blouse), in the same way for the other views to give the blouse some shape. Otherwise it would look like a hospital gown, with ties in the front! I thought the bias tape type of elastic casing was an unusual feature of the blouse.

Elastic Casing From Bias Tape

* I sewed a 1/2" hem at the bottom.

Conclusion
This pattern was easy to sew, but not that quick to sew. I think this style would have worked for me when I was in high school 25 years ago, when the frilly, ruffled, Valley Girl look was in! Perhaps it was the pink and white fabric coupled with the ruffled style and elasticized waist (did not work for me as you can see) that made me look silly, like an older woman trying to relive her youth (i.e. Betsey Johnson?). Also with my dark coloring, I am better suited for non pastels. I looked at the blouse and said to myself, this looks like one my little girl's dresses made many sizes larger!

It was fun to sew, but something I will not wear out of the house. I would wear a jeans jacket over it if I go out. The frilly look is not for me anymore. I normally wear blazers, slacks, and basic shirts. If I go "retro", then I will stay with shirts with the big collar and aline dresses!

Butterick's New Blouse 4988 looks tempting to create!

Another Vintage Pattern for Boho/peasant Tops
Butterick's 4988 looks like a possibility!
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.B4988=x&TI=10001&page=2

More Boho/peasant tops
http://cgi.ebay.com/70s-Vintage-Pattern-Boho-PEASANT-Blouse-Top-B34-B36_W0QQitemZ6279376080QQihZ010QQcategoryZ4161QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Thursday, February 01, 2007

Fly Robin Fly with Johanna Travolta!

Charlie's Angels with their flyaway hair and collars!


















70's famous trio with their flyaway hair and collars!

Blouses that scream Johanna Travolta!

Pattern Description
From 1972:
The blouse with forward shoulder seams has shirt-type collar, front-button closing, and optional purchased belt. View 1 has long set-in sleeves pleated to buttoned cuffs. View has short set-in sleeves. View 3 is sleeveless. The two-piece tie is lined.

I sewed View 1, the long sleeve blouse.

Wearing shirt/jacket unbuttoned

Size
Misses' 14, bust 36"

Fabric Used
Paisley and floral printed lightweight home decorator type of fabric at Joann's clearance section. The fabric is more vibrant than what my camera phone shows.

Likes
* Single sized pattern

* Requires few pattern pieces: front of jacket with attached facing, back of jacket, collar, sleeve, and sleeve cuff.

* The pattern is printed with dark indigo ink on heavier tissue paper than what is used today!

* Directions were sufficient for advanced beginners and beyond.

Dislikes
There was nothing much to dislike, except for attaching and finishing the sleeve cuffs because they took a little more time than usual.

Features
* Two bust darts (they seem somewhat high for me) and two darts in the back, below the neckline.

* The attached facings were not fully interfaced - I basted a long strip of interfacing that was 2" wide along the center of each facing.

* The collar attached nicely along the edge of the neck, matching notches and marked circles.

* The facings were folded back and sewn onto the collar and the rest of the neck edge and then turned back in to reveal the little lapel below the wide collar

* The bottom edge of each sleeve was pleated (basted) in the direction of the arrows from solid lines to dotted lines.

* I spent a little more time than usual aligning the buttons with the buttonholes while wearing the jacket to prevent the front of the jacket from gaping, which can be easily seen from looking sideways.

Modifications
* Top-stitched the front edges and the side seams.

* Created a tie belt.

* Added two square pockets in the front.

* Collar was slightly wider than pictured most likely because I
intentionally used a smaller seam allowance than the one marked (5/8")

* I folded the facing back, right sides of the fabric together, and stitched across the facing, 1" from the bottom of the jacket. Then I turned the facings back to the inside of the jacket, folded about a 1" hemline and machine stitched the hem instead of slip-stitching or handstitching as directed.

* Surprisingly, this shirt fits fine without alterations and covers up my tummy well!


Conclusion
Certain 1970's clothing have that type of "funky" flair or character that sets them apart from other blouses. Many would not want to be caught wearing them nowadays and be perceived as bizarre looking. I poked fun at my mom whevever I find pictures of her from the 60s and 70s. Now I enjoy sewing clothing from the 60s and 70s (they stand out in my closet) and wearing them when the occasion arises or whenever I feel daring enough to wear them in the public eye.

A fun jacket to make and wear, just to be out of the ordinary!


Ralph Lauren Metallic Safari Jacket from Neiman Marky

Silly mother and daughter! (Somebody snuck in again, as you can see by my shocked and shocking look!)