Monday, September 24, 2007

Ring Around the Collar

 


That "Cleopatra" collar is making a huge comeback!

BCBGMAXAZRIA Beaded Charmeuse Halter Dress for $372 from Nordy's


Could this also be the same dress?











I was hesitant to share this dress (completed a week ago and done before my most recent entries) because it was very easy, and of the fact that I made a VERY goofy mistake which you'll find out in a moment.

I liked the look of Diane VF's Crochet Mini Dress. Then I fortunately found this pattern from etsy.com

Pattern Description
"Misses' one-piece dress: The sleeveless and collarless dress with side front and side back seams has lined yoke, back zipper and slightly lowered neckline. V. 1 has normal armholes. V. 2 has deep cut armholes. V. 3 has halter-type yoke."

Sizing
Size 14, Bust 34" (I thought it was originally 36", but then it was too late!). One side was a bit tighter than the other (I confess that I am asymmetrical)

Fabric Used
Woven cotton

Directions
* Consisted of one two-sided page.
* Brief, but easy to follow
* Illustrations/diagrams were helpful. I liked that there were labels on the corresponding parts of the dress for clarification. For instance, even the words "front", "back", "lining", "yoke front" helped.

Likes
* Absolutely easy to cut and sew!
* I like the cut of the ring collar, giving it a halter style. The collar does not come as wide on the shoulders as in many of the current dresses I see.
* The upper bodice is self-lined
* Aline style
* I thought I would not ever use the numbered notches along the seam lines, which seemed more common in older patterns. They certainly came in handy when in two instances, I used them to make sure that I was pinning the pieces in the correct orientation! It was not always the case that two double-notched edges go together as I discovered!
* Overall, well-drafted

Dislikes
Nothing much to dislike. I really did not mind handsewing the bodice lining to the seams and the bottom hem. In fact, it's a nice diversion from working at the machine.

Modifications
* Added 3/8" to the side seam allowance.
* Shortened the length by 5" so that the dress would fall just below the knee.
* Basted the seams before basting and stitching the zipper
* This dress will motivate me to lose some extra pounds through an intense workout program.

Conclusion
It seems as if a vintage pattern with a ring collar yoke styling gets sold immediately when it or something similar is on an on-line vintage pattern sites or on ebay (for a high bid, of course!). I was fortunate to find this on etsy.com, a site specializing in handmade items.

I definitely recommend this pattern if you are looking for a ring collar dress that sews nicely and easily!

The Wild Pair!

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Sunday, September 09, 2007

Floral Freak, C'est Chic

The Feathered Friends (from 1978)!


I made the view on the right! Heather wanted to be part of the fashion scene!


The upward gaze!



Pattern Description:
"Misses' Blouses: Blouses, gathered into neckbands have raglan sleeves; long sleeves A, or bracelet length B, C hae elastic in lower casings. Pullover blouse A has V- neckline and drawstring in lower casing. Pullover blouse B has round neckline, pleat below part-way buttoned front. Buttoned blosue C has square neckline. I made view C.

Pattern Sizing:
Size 12, bust 34.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except my blouse seemed to be a billowy tunic!

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I liked that the instructions were separated by the particular views and that there was no overlap of instructions among the views. All the views have three distinctive necklines: "V", rounded, and square.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the square collarband and the roomy sleeves elasticized at the wrists. The raglan sleeves were a breeze to attach.

I did not anticipate the blouse to appear more like a roomy tunic instead of a shirt with a somewhat fitted silhouette as pictured on the envelope. The pictures on the envelope were misleading! But maybe view C was meant to be tucked in as illustrated.

The gathering part is tricky! I gathered each section from one point to another (front, sleeves, back) so that the gathering is sectional instead of whole (from one front end of the blouse to the other front end). When attaching the collar, I made sure that I lined up the notches, squares, and circles.

Fabric Used:
Sheer polyester from Joann's clearance section.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

I skipped interfacing the front edges of the blouse because I was working with a sheer.

I omitted the second topstitching the neckband.

I took in another 3/4" at the side seams. I could use a belt to pull the look of the top together.

I slightly changed the placement of the buttons/buttonholes.

I decided to tie the front ends of the blouse, make a big knot and tuck it under. Then I folded the rest of the bottom edge of the blouse to create a "blouson" style. It seemed more wearable and fashionable this way.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will not sew this pattern again. I am fine for just one of these tops!

Conclusion
I find the neckline flattering and I like the gathered front. There are current patterns that reincarnated such styling.

I wore this top recently. One of my students screamed, "I like your top!!!!!!" I did not expect her reaction - she's usually quiet! But it's nice to receive pleasant surprises, especially those that are so unexpected!

The blouse would also be great for a beach cover up or loungewear if worn unbuttoned or untucked.

Fly Robin Fly

The flutter sleeves,...




...bow and...


...ruching/pintucks are making a flying comeback!


Combine those elements with that distinctive fly collar and some ziggy zaggying...


to get the ultimate 70's blouse!



Second Version (August 18, 2007)











Get out your platform shoes and let's boogie to "Fly Robin fly.....up, up to the sky!...."

Pattern Description
From 1975, a "carefree pattern (tm)" from McCall's: "Pullover blouse with extended shoulder line (1" past the shoulders for me)and deep cut armholes, has collar and stitched front pleats. Long sleeves A, B, C gather into buttoned cuffs; flared sleeves D have gathered cap. Blouse A, B, D has tie included in collar seam." I sewed view D, the flared sleeve version.

Sizing
Misses' size 12, bust 34.

Fabric used
Printed poly-lycra knit from my local Yardage Town store. It was so easy to work with!

Likes
I find the extended shoulder style to be flattering. I also like the blouse's feminine look due to the bow tie and the flutter sleeves (cut on the bias) which were just the right size for my frame. The collar added that retro edge. I also liked the way the blouse elongated my torso and how it draped, concealing figure flaws!

Dislikes
There was really nothing to dislike except the silly mistakes I made!

The instructions were straightforward. I took for granted that I knew what I was doing and overlooked an important step: attaching the bow ties to one of the collar pieces before sewing the collar facing, right sides together! I was so eager to create the collar that I immediately sewed the collar facing to the other collar piece (which I did not interface). As I was attaching the entire collar section to the neck edge, I noticed from the illusrations that the ties had been attached to the blouse! So I back tracked and realized that I skipped the step on basting the neck ties to the collar piece before stitching the collar facing. So out comes my handy dandy seam ripper! After turning the entire collar section from the inside out, the ties came out nicely from the sides of the collar.

Another oops! After I was remiss in sewing the front facing to the neck, instead of hand basting. I had to take my seam ripper and carefully remove the stitching of the front facing (attached to the neck seam) before attaching the entire collar section to the neckline. Then I stitched the front facing over the collar and turned the facing inward. Here's the lesson that I learned: read all of the instructions and don't automatically assume, "Hey, it's easy because I did something like this before!" Sometimes one step forward = a setback. But later the setbacks are what we learn from to move further. The learning process is often very interesting...

Modifications
I skipped interfacing one of the collar pieces. I did not want extra bulk at the neckline.

I sewed tight zig zag stitches at the bottom edges of the sleeves instead of a folded hem.

I sewed a tiny hem at the bottom of the blouse, folded a 3/4" hem and slip stitched for a nicer finish.

Conclusion
Feeling bold, I wore this to work today. I really had fun wearing this and watching my students' reactions when they enter my classroom. They are so used to seeing and wearing drabby colors: blues, browns, khakis, greys. I enjoyed seeing their facial expressions as if they needed sunglasses! "Mrs. __________, you look mighty different today!" Hey, my grade school teachers wore outfits with similar styling and colors, and they looked normal back then! This top was very comfortable. Maybe this fabric has this "breathable" quality, which enabled me to withstand the heat in and out of the classroom.

I definitely recommend this pattern if you could find it or something similar to it. Blouses with ties are en vogue this fall/winter!



From Betsey Johnson's Fall RTW 2007 collection:




Some groovy comments:

Reader Comments

Linda G 8/15/07 Beautiful...and oh yes I remember the days of trying to get that bow just right...I see the September Burda WOF has a blouse with a bow.
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Birgitte 8/15/07 You look fantastic in that blouse!
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sewbehind 8/15/07 Thanks for the review. I made this one back in the 70's. Great to see the OOP pattern. You look great in your blouse.
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Seamingly Simple 8/16/07 I think you shouldn't hesitate to show your students your flamboyant style: the "different" teachers are the ones they'll remember. I recall thinking some of my teachers were pretty cool because they didn't care to dress like all the others. You have so many neat retro items, and this blouse is another fine example.
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Blooms 8/16/07 groovy baby!
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ryan's mom 8/16/07 Oh...what a great retro fabric for this pattern! You must feel great in this groovalicious top :) .
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busy91 8/16/07 Groovy! Marsha Brady would be so proud. I love the material. Good job!
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leanmeansewingmachine 8/16/07 Great fabric for a groovy style. Nice work!
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cecelia 8/16/07 Be bold--good for you--very nice looking, and your bow is just right. I think I made a dress from a similar pattern (in the 70's, yikes!).
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Costume & Retro Kellie 8/16/07 Thanks for the great review! What a fun blouse in a great fabric!! I love groovy and it looks fantastic!
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krissie 8/16/07 Wow that's a happening top! Great job, I love it!
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Busy Mom 8/16/07 Fun and carefree, just as the pattern promised. Thanks for reminding us on the importance of taking a few minutes to read over the instructions before delving in. Sounds like both you and your students enjoyed your top - that makes it all worth it!
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Lois K. 8/16/07 I think you found the perfect fabric for that top. It looks great on you!
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My favorite fashion icons!


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