I used a classic Vogue couturier pattern (2427) has been in my stash for about a year and half now for its collar, length, and overall style that is current.
Rating: Average to Slightly Difficult
I really "dig" long swing jackets. Current Cynthia Steffe jackets have that retro style with a modern edge. I also liked the INC empire jacket , but without the empire style. So here's my interpretation of current swing jackets with a tribute to the 60's.
I used a classic Vogue couturier pattern (2427) that has been in my stash for about a year and half now and chose it for its style of collar, length, and its "swing" style which is now "in."
Pattern Description
By designer Mr. Jo Mattli of London for Vogue Couturier Patterns: "Loose-fitting jacket has bias collar, front button and snap-closing, patch pockets, center back vent and seven-eight length sleeves. Purchased belt slightly holds in fullness of waist. Semi-fitted, low-waisted sleeveless top has jewel neckline, front butgton closing, pockets, inlower side front seams and front band continuing to back of neck. Fitted pants with shaped legs are darted into wasiband with front zipper clsing. Purchased scarf. Hat not included." Original price $4.00. I sewed the jacket.
Size
Misses' 12, bust 34", hip 36".
Fabric
Cotton twill with a bit of sateen.
Directions
Overall, more than satisfactory! Almost every step included detailed illustrations ;-}. I have found this true with the classic Vogue couturier patterns that I have worked with so far. The only tricky part is attaching the upper collar piece. I have been used to sewing the undercollar to the uppercollar, right sides together, then turning them from the inside to the outside before attaching to the neckline. The back facing piece is sewed to the ends of the front facing (built in to the front of the jacket). Then it took me some thought to figure out how to attach the upper collar. After staring at the diagram for some time, ripping out a 5" horizontal seam, (seam rippers certainly come in handy!)and staring at the diagram again, I figured out that the upper collar piece is attached to the back facing piece, right sides together, between the back facing (illustration does not show this clearly, so I wrote a quick note on the margin)and the back neckline. Here's my note on the directions sheet.
Likes
* The princess seams that flatter any figure! The front has l-shaped princess seams and the back has vertical seams.
* The lines and the overall design of this jacket.
* Vintage European chic.
* The markings and notched matched up nicely at the seams.
Dislikes
* I had to fiddle at the point where side front met with the rest of the front of the jacket met at the corner of the "L" princess seam. I trimmed about an 1 1/2" from the edge at a diagonal of the side front to get the the front to ease.
* I had to also fiddle at the point where the collars met the top corner of the front facing. The diagram made it more simpler than it really was! I overstitched somewhere which caused some bunching after turning the facings to the outside.
*Other than that, the jacket was straightforward to construct.
Modifications
* Omitted the pockets. Actually the jacket looked better without them. Other than that, I did not make any alterations for fit.
* Attached 4 black buttons by JHB.
Conclusion
Although I am satisfied with the results, I would not use this pattern again, but found this a worthwhile sewing experience to get me back into sewing jackets again! ;-} I would definitely rate this pattern somewhere between an average and more difficult due to some of the little obstacles I discovered and the time factor. Although this jacket has a nice, clean and simple style, it is so far the most difficult Vogue couturier pattern that I worked with. If you enjoy sewing vintage or retro styles, I recommend the Vogue couturier line (ebay has many!) for clear directions for advanced beginners and beyond.
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